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Does Gary Rhodes’ new restaurant in Dubai in Dubai a sure bet?
Public Group active 2 years, 10 months agoGary Rhodes is having the worst of times of his life. Maybe it’s just the perception. Not only did he shut down all of his UK restaurants (bar one in Plymouth) and move to Dubai (mind that I’m not blaming him as the sun, sunshine, and a tax-free lifestyle can help) However, the place he operates, Rhodes 44 located at The St Regis Abu Dhabi ever quietly closed it’s doors in the past few months, while Mezzanine the top-end of his restaurant in Grosvenor House closed for an overhaul in the year 2000. The Mezzanine restaurant is now Rhodes W1; ironically, the restaurant’s name is derived from his Cumberland hotel located in London…which was, sure enough, you’ve guessed it correctly. Has also closed its doors. His branding team would likely select an unfavorable name, mainly since London postcodes aren’t significant in the UK – however, I’m guessing it’s a reference to an iconic British notion.
Incidentally, some advertising rhodesw1.com blurbs refer to the establishment as “RW1. So for this review, we’ll use the full name: Rhodes W1. Interviews with the media reported that Gary wanted to eliminate the Mezzanine’s frills to focus on wholesome British food in a casual setting. Indeed, the bright white decor is still there. However, the sketchy interior (an interpretation of Pierre Gagnaire’s London restaurant) is replaced with the theme of a botanical conservatory with hints of lime and yellow – imagine grass-covered walls and fake plants, butterflies and parrot-themed murals and roses on the tables, as well as servers dressed in sunny yellow…and braces. Its lighting (enhanced by an ethereal glass chandelier with a flurry of butterflies) is too bright and needs to be dimmed, or else Rhodes W1 is the perfect lunch spot…but it’s only open for dinner. The traditional English summer garden could influence the interior; however, it doesn’t sound as authentically British as the website claims. The place is a modern and bright space without white linen tablecloths. They are certainly more elegant than casual, however. If you’re looking for a mid-week meal, there’s an atmosphere amongst the diverse clientele.
The menu is an excellent take on British classics with a few twists. The famous or maybe infamous white tomato soup has long since gone (yes, I was one of the fans). However, the pork belly jam roly-poly mini scones are still available.
Traditional Pork pie is one of the two appetizers we choose that isn’t too fat but still incredibly nourishing and comes beautifully presented on a plate with the sweet honey-apple sauce, fresh crisp and crisp coleslaw, and Cumberland sauce, served in a tiny glass jug to drizzle. The other side, the second appetizer we serve is a bit more inventive. A crumpet that has been toasted and buttered and served with a deliciously caramelized duck, foie gras crispy egg, runny yolk, and a smear of Hollandaise sauce is delicious. We wash down the sweet and rich sauce with slice after slice of baguette. This dish undoubtedly has a French influence that Gary has added to his menu in the past. This may become the new eggs benedict. Shame that you’re not available for breakfast.
The shepherd’s pie main dish is prepared traditionally using slow-cooked braised lamb shoulder, and not a tidbit of mince is used here. It’s topped with a smooth, velvety Mash that contains an underlying hint of cheese. Adding homemade HP sauce provides an excellent, tangy complement to the succulent meat. The kidney and steak pie is also a return to basics by making a classic suet pudding that breaks apart when you use the fork. A vegetarian side dish of the day includes cooked with al dente and swede sugar snap peas and carrots, asparagus, and peas. The baby potatoes, which have been steamed, are sprinkled with butter.
Gary’s warm mini Scones to serve for dessert are just as crumbly and soft as they’ve been for years served in petit fours. My only issue is that more than two are needed to do the large portion of wonderful lemon curd clotted cream mousse and strawberries.
From the moment we’re sitting at the table (and it’s good to know there are plenty of tables because banquettes are also available) the service is fast and professional, with only one issue when we had to ask for the bill two times. The waiter is more focused on showing the terrace and the bar. The bill is AED254 per person with no alcohol (there’s an extensive wine menu. However, it’s a small choice of wines by glasses); Rhodes W1 offers excellent value-for-money within Dubai’s restaurant market and is mid-priced.
The gastro-pub-style food served at Rhodes W1 is superb. However, there is a little mismatch with the luxurious interior that has a hint of the Mezzanine taste. If you want to fix the issue, reduce the light that can help reduce the all-white ambiance and test the place. You could be onto something special Here, Gary, and The Rhodes Twenty10 at Royal Meridien. This is a 3.5 out of five FooDiva scores for the knife.
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